Text and Photos by I.B. Andi Sucirta

A monkey forest with evidence of ancient Hindu civilization and colorful traditions

Bali has three well-known monkey forests: Ubud in Gianyar Regency, Sangeh in Badung Regency, and Alas Kedaton in Tabanan Regency. You can also find monkeys at many other temples in Bali, since most Balinese, the majority of whom are Hindu, consider the monkey a holy animal, and Hindus seek to maintain good relations with nature, through the concept of Tri Hita Karana.

The presence of temples within the forests where the monkeys live indicates that these venues also have a religious function. Many legends describe the harmonious relations between communities and their forests. Communities living near forests always respect and protect the forests. Each village has awig-awig (traditional regulations) full of prohibitions relating to the forest, the monkeys, and the temples, with strict punishments for violators.

One unique tourism attraction is the holy monkey forest at Alas Kedaton in Kukuh village, Marga district, Tabanan regency, about 40 minutes from Kuta or 10 minutes from the town of Tabanan. The forest has a population of around 400 monkeys, mostly the long-tailed or grey macaque (Macaca fascicularis). They are considerably tamer than the monkeys at the other tourist attractions, and run free in a 12-hectare forest. There are also hundreds of large bats hanging in the trees at the back end of the forest.

The majesty of an ancient Hindu civilization

Right in the middle of the forest, facing west, is the temple, Pura Alas Kedaton (also called Pura Dalem Kahyangan Kedaton), which has four pemedal (entry/exit gates). The interior of the temple is a holy area, situated at a lower level, unlike the more common temple design in Bali in which the central holy area is at a higher level.

Pura Dalem Kahyangan Kedaton, located in Alas Kedaton (Kedaton Forest), is full of unique relics of ancient history. As well as megaliths, the temple area contains Durga Mahisasuramardhini and Siwa Linggam statues. As well as being sacred media of worship, these relics are also evidence of a much earlier Hindu civilization.

Archeological investigations suggest that Pura Dalem Kahyangan Kedaton is an ancient temple that has stood here for around 2000 years. Some of the relics found here are believed to be from the pre-Hindu period prehistoric, in fact, from the era of the megalithic tradition in Indonesia. The main medium of worship during this period was megaliths, also called menhirs, large structures made of large and small rocks. These structures were used as places to worship the souls of the ancestors, the forces of nature, and the forces that grant fertility and prosperity.

A unique religious ritual

Another unique feature of Alas Kedaton is the piodalan (temple ceremony) conducted every 210 days, on Anggara Kliwon Medangsia in the Balinese calendar, 21 days after the major holiday of Galungan. Both for the piodalan and for daily rituals, at this temple it is forbidden to use incense, penjor (woven bamboo decorations), tabuh rah (cock fighting), or other modern innovations. The ceremony starts at midday and must end before the sun sets, because any use of fire or electricity is also forbidden. This distinguishes the rituals at this temple from those at other temples in Bali; perhaps this relates to the megalithic tradition inherited and upheld by the community of Kukuh village.

Discovering the colors of Bali

Another interesting ceremony is a procession of women carrying gebogan toward the temple; this activity is called mepeed. Gebogan are offerings arranged on banana stalks to form a tower, with the first layer comprised of fruits and the other layers of cakes in various colors.

Although this tradition is found elsewhere, the mepeed at Alas Kedaton is unique in that it is performed in very long, orderly lines that can reach for dozens of meters. The natural panorama and surrounding forest enhance the ceremony's religious ambience; the colorful clothing of the women in the procession contrasts starkly with the natural background, providing a very memorable image.

After the presentation of the offerings, which is the essence of the 'piodalan' ceremony, you can also see various artistic performances and entertainments, also related to the ceremony. Children perform dances in various places around the village; adults and other children watch after performing their prayers.

Synergy of tourism, nature conservation, history and culture