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Garuda magazine - The Island of Seaweed Farmer |
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Friday,26 March, 2010 viewed :
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Text
& photos by IB Andi Sucirta. Nusa Lembongan (Nusa means
Island), at 4.6 km long and up to 1.5km wide, is one of a cluster of three small
islands located to the southeast of Bali – the other two are Nusa Penida (also
known as Nusa Gede) and Nusa Ceningan. The people of Nusa Lembongan live in the
villages of Jungut Batu and Lembongan and number around 5,000.
The only way of
reaching the island is by sea: from Sanur beach or Denpasars Tanjung Benoa
harbour, or from Tribhuana harbour in the Kusamba, Klungkung. There is also a
variety of ways of crossing to choose from, ranging from the kind of wooden
boats that are used by local people to the speed boats commonly used by
tourists.
Strategically, Sanur
beach is the most convienant to gain access to the island, due to its proximity
to several tourist locations in and around Denpasar and Kuta. Means of transport
for the crossing and fares per person vary quite a bit, from IDR30,000 one way
on the public boat to about IDR50,000 by speed boat. The public boat makes the
trip every morning at 8am while the speed boats make three trips during the day.
The boats used by the local people are made from wood or fibreglass. They are
quite big with bamboo outriggers on both sides for stabilization and to reduce
rocking when ploughing through the waves.

The boats follow
Balis eastern shoreline and cross the Badung
strait to head for Nusa Lembongan. It is a pleasant trip across fairly calm
waters and the one and a half hours it takes pass quickly. From the boat I could
see the white sands of the beach spread out in front of Jungut Batu village. The
seaweed cultivated by the local people here was also easily visible because the
seawater is so clear.
Nusa Lembongan is
known as the biggest seaweed producing area in Bali. Along with West Nusa Tenggara (NTB)
East Nusa Tenggara (NTT) and Central and South Sulawesi, Bali is one of the most
important seaweed producing areas in Indonesia.
The landscape of Nusa Lembongan, which is largely made up of gently inclined
white sand, and the transparent seawater with suitably strong currents, make it
ideal for the cultivation of seaweed.
Since the 1990s the
number of tourists visiting this island has increased rapidly and many
facilities and infrastructure - including a varied choice of accommodation types
- have been built. These range from bungalows and villas to guesthouses and
hotels. On my way from the dock to my accommodation, I saw the houses of the
local community alongside hotels and other tourist accommodation. Almost every
bit of open space is used for drying seaweed. The farmers sometimes seem
oblivious to the presence of tourists but they are very friendly if you get
chatting to them.
For getting around
the island I hired a motorbike. It cost IDR75,000 for 8 hours, including petrol.
You can drive it yourself or use a guide for a small additional fee. For large
groups or people on a package tour, there are pick up trucks modified for
sightseeing expeditions.

Starting from Jungut
Batu I headed south towards the village of Lembongan to take a look
at the seaweed cultivation areas located on the southern side of the island
along the strait that separates Nusa Lembongan from Nusa Ceningan. All along the
beach the seaweed farmers come and go, unloading seedlings or loading their
latest harvest of seaweed into their boats. There are a few simple buildings
which are used for resting or for preparing the seedlings. The remaining open
land is used for drying the seaweed. There are also some souvenir shops and food
stalls.
Seaweed cultivation
provides a livelihood for most of Nusa Lembongans residents while others earn
their living from the tourist trade or work for the local government. Seaweed
accounts for a significant boost to the prosperity of the local communities. The
most commonly grown types of seaweed are Cottonii and Spinosum. After it is
harvested, the local people usually dry it and then sell it to wholesalers who
pay between IDR2.000 and IDR5.000 per kilogram.
From the seaweed
cultivating areas of Nusa Lembongan village, I headed for the bridge that
connects Nusa Lembongan to Nusa Ceningan. Being a mere metre and a half wide,
this bridge can only be used by pedestrians and motorbikes. The view from this
bridge is very interesting with the white sand of the seabed easily visible
through the clear greenish water. A trip from here to the island of Nusa
Penida would take about 30 minutes
by public boat.

After taking in the
view from the bridge, I made my way north across Nusa Lembongan island and
noticed how the land became drier with mangroves everywhere. The cultivation of
corn, cassava and coconuts here is suited to this arid soil. My journey finally
ended with my return to the village of Jungut
Batu. The tour of the island, not
including stops, takes about 30 minutes. With it being so small, one could go
right around it several times in a single day.
Later I headed south
again to check out the panorama of the island from the top of the hill near
Jungut Batu village. There I waited for the gorgeous scene when the sun is
sinking below the rocks to the east of the island, a place travellers like to
call Dream
Beach.
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All images and web content © 2008 - 2010 Andi Sucirta. All rights reserved. |
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